Tolox

  
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A white pueblo in the Sierra de las Nieves inland from Malaga, Andalucia, Spain
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Tolox. It had been a long time coming, or, rather, we had been a long time going. We first saw the name of this white village in the Sierra de las Nieves several years ago, while on holiday. At the end of yet another lovely, although rather samey day at the coast, with the flame of wander-lust flickering in our eyes, we opened a bottle of wine and spread out a huge map on a small table, chatting about the possibility one day of hiring a car and embarking on an exciting journey of exploration through inland Andalucia. About a year ago we saw the name again, this time on a huge billboard advertising property for sale. The inevitable visit drew closer as we shot past the turnoff to Tolox along the A7250 from the A366 on our way to Yunquera.
Then at last we made the decision to go there, wondering almost immediately why on earth we had left it so long. Pulling in at the mirador and picnic area just 2 kilometres from the village, we were stunned by the wonderful scenery and the lovely postcard picture of Tolox in the distance. Beside several very peaceful and shady picnic tables is the small chapel of Saint Roque, who, together with his trusty dog, has defended the town since the XIV C against the plague and all types of epidemic. A plaque nearby explains that the Sierra Tolox mountains form the major part of the Sierra de las Nieves mountain range. “Here can be found the highest point of the province of Malaga (La Torrecilla 1.1919m) and also one of the deepest caves in the world (Sima GEMS, -1.100 metres explored so far).”
Initially, we drove all the way through the lower part of the village to reach the famous Amargosa Spring Spa, situated at the end of an avenue of well-established bluegum trees, next to another wonderful vantage point, looking back towards the pueblo and at the mountain slopes all around. Apparently the waters of the spa include sulphurous and magnesium minerals which have been proved ideal for the treatment and prevention of respiratory and urinary illnesses, the setting alone without doubt being beneficial for the soul. We then followed the road to the beautiful hotel at the top of the mountain.
Back in the village again we parked the car and set out on foot to explore Tolox itself. But first, some refreshment. And what choice! There were so many attractive bars and restaurants that it was difficult to make up our minds. Eventually we opted for a shady terrace bar that looked out across the rooftops of the town and we were treated to the best plate of mixed fried fish we have ever eaten. Don’t ever believe anyone who suggests that fish served inland is not as fresh as on the coast, or that it is more expensive. The service too was second to none.
A short stroll brought us to the old church and the Barrio Castillo where you can lose yourself in a maze of narrow lanes and passageways, passing a spectacular display of beautiful, lovingly nurtured plants and flowers, obviously the pride and joy of local residents.
Tolox. Heartily recommended. We will be back there one day.

Tolox.Tardó mucho en llegar nuestra visita a este pueblo blanco en La Sierra de las Nieves. Vimos el nombre por la primera vez hace unos años, mientras estábamos de vacaciones. Al fin de un día maravillosa, aún un poco como otros días en la costa, con la llama en nuestros ojos de una desea a explorar, abrimos una botella de tinto y extendimos un mapa grande en una mesa pequeña, charlando sobre la posibilidad de un viaje emocionante por la parte interior de Andalucía. Hace más o menos un año vimos el nombre de nuevo, esta vez en una valla publicitaria anunciando propiedades para vender. La visita inevitable se acercó cuando pasamos la carretera un día por A7250 de A366 en camino a Yunquera.
Entonces por fin decidimos a ir allí, preguntándonos casi inmediatamente porque habíamos esperado tan largo. Parando al mirador y zona de picnic más o menos 2 kilometros del pueblo nos aturdimos por el paisaje estupendo y el pueblo bonito de Tolox a lo lejos. Al lado de unas mesas muy tranquilas esta la Ermita de San Roque quien con su chucho querido han defendido el pueblo desde el siglo XIV contra la peste y todo tipo de epidemias. Una placa cercano explica que el macizo de la Sierra de Tolox configura el nucleo principal del conjunto denominado Sierrra de la Nieves y en él se encuentran desde el pico de mayor altitud de la provincia (La Torrecilla 1.11919m), hasta unas de las simas más profundas del mundo (Sima GEMS –1.100m explorados).
Al principio conducimos por la parte abajo del pueblo para llegar el Balneario de Fuente Amargosa al fin de una avenida, al lado de otro mirador, dando hacía el pueblo y los montes alrededor. A ver sus aguas, de mineralización sulfurosa y magnésica, se demostraron desde entonces ideales para el tratamiento y prevención de enfermedades respiratorias y urinarias, el marco por si mismo muy bueno para la alma. Seguimos la carraterra al hotel a la cumbre de la montaña.
En el pueblo siempre aparcamos el coche y empezamos a explorar a pie. Pero primeramente algo para beber y comer. Y, que elección! Había tantos bares y restaurantes no pusimos elegir uno! Por fin entramos una terraza que daba sobre los techos del pueblo y tomamos lo más delicioso pescado mixta que habíamos tomado nunca! No creas alguien que te dice que el pescado en el interior no esta tan fresco como lo del costa, o que es más caro.
Despues un paseo corto llegamos la iglesia vieja y el Barrio Castillo donde se puede perderse en un laberinto de callejónes y pasajes con muchas flores los que son obviamente el orgullo y alegría de la gente local.
Tolox. Muy recomendado. Algun día volveremos.

June 2006
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