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I
was surprised when a friend, who despite being an exceptionally good
cook, said one day that she didn’t know how to prepare sea bass,
known locally in Andalucia as dorada. There is no mystery about it
and in fact it couldn’t be easier, yet I supposed like so many
things in life it is very easy only once you know how.
I got my advice from one of the best available sources, a very helpful
lady who serves at the very fresh and always well stocked fish counter
in our local supermarket. The larger doradas have less small bones,
she explained, handy information for those less experienced in dealing
with fish. Always ask the person serving to clean the fish for you
(puedes limpiarlo por favor). Many will do this automatically, but
some don’t unless you request it.
Basically, the fish is baked in the oven, but additionally is encased
in its own oven of salt. You will need a bag of sea salt (sal marina),
which is fairly cheap. Choose a large, shallow roasting tray and add
some salt, creating an even, thin layer over the bottom of the tray.
Lay the fish onto the bed of salt.
At this stage, especially if you are a Jamie Oliver inspired caterer,
like me, you may be tempted to bung in lashings of lovely fresh herbs,
which I might actually try myself soon. However, sea bass is a very
tasty fish and, cooked in this way, it really doesn’t need any
seasoning or garnish. Simply cover the fish with another thin layer
of sea salt, packing it tightly around the edges so that the whole
fish is wrapped in salt.
Place the tray in a pre-heated oven (200ºC) and leave for between
25 and 30 minutes. Trust your nose, the fish smells heavenly when
it is ready. You will need to break open the casing of salt with a
knife and fork, being careful not to damage the fish underneath. Scrape
the salt away, and either lift the fish onto a plate or deal with
it in the tray, easing off the skin and stripping the fish away from
the bone.
Since the fish has such a lovely flavour and it is wise to concentrate
on not swallowing any little bones, I find it more relaxing to eat
it on its own, although you may want to serve it with boiled new potatoes,
perhaps, and some beans or peas. An early tapas is always a good idea
and this wonderful, yet very simple suggestion comes from a local
Spanish friend: cut some sweet tomatoes into evenly sized chunks and
top each one with a piece of anchovy, what a combination! |
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