In search of . . .
Menu del Dia

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Anyone who has ever driven through parts of Andalucia will probably have seen the occasional sign outside a venta or restaurant offering a set lunch menu for the day, a menu del dia. The price is usually very reasonable, the setting often wonderful and the temptation to just drop in and give it a try can be very great. Of course it has to be at the right time of day, usually between about 1 and 3 o’clock, and if you have had a big breakfast, which is often the case when on a driving holiday, you may not have the appetite for a big lunch and so the opportunity is often left behind as a pleasant thought. Perhaps one day.
The curiosity, though, may linger and the time may come when the menu del dia, rather than a fleeting possibility as you speed along your merry way, may become the specific aim of the outing, the mission del dia.
Adopting a light-hearted, philosophical attitude to the adventure is always advisable. The dozens of missed opportunities in the past may have given you the idea that there is a menu del dia on offer around every corner. Not necessarily so. When you are looking for one, they can suddenly seem as rare as a decent summer in England. It is important to remember, if this turns out to be the case, that it is the hunt rather than the capture that counts. Sit back in your car, put on some good music and head out into the countryside, enjoying the inevitable spectacular views all around. And of course, be prepared for your menu del dia to turn into an emergency bun on the run.
And when you do find a suitable place, thankfully not on the one day of the week when it is closed, it is also important to bear in mind, as with anything in life, that you win some and you lose some. Bad service, although rare, can leave one member of the group still waiting for the first course as the others near completion of their second course and the battle for coffee may be lost in the dust of frustration. I stress that this is rare. Most ventas are very pleased to see you and treat you very well. Of course the actual menu del dia is usually always written in Spanish and even those visitors who speak the language may be puzzled by what is on offer. Again, it is important to remember that it is an adventure as much as a meal and bravery is often well rewarded with delight and enjoyment. Although not everyone may enjoy boiled eggs in water as a starter!
Driving through spectacular scenery near Coin one sunny day, the rural road we had chosen, although tarmac and, as several very stringent tests were to prove, actually wide enough for two passing cars, seemed to offer very little prospect of a menu del dia. Isolated houses popped into view on the hills ahead and then receded, little hamlets filled us with hope and then left us disappointed. Then, in the distance we saw a white pueblo nestling into the side of a mountain. It was 1 o’clock. Things were looking good. The road led straight to the village. We began licking our lips in anticipation. Not long now. But the road suddenly became very narrow, eventually, and inexplicably, turning into a staircase leading up a very steep hill. And there wasn’t enough room to turn the car around. A couple of very amused locals explained that there was a brand new road at the top of the hill, but they were confused about how we would get the car up there.
After a 25-point turn we were back on the rural road, heading in the opposite direction, even the increasingly attractive prospect of a bun on the run seeming rather unlikely as the minutes ticked by.
Then we spotted one. A menu del dia! Friendly faces, lovely restaurant, the sound of Spanish guitar, an excellent glass of chilled white wine, with a bowl of pressed olives and a basket of tasty chunks of Andalucian bread. Having established that one of the offered starters had something to do with chopped chicken, we chose higlado de pollo con puré de patatas, which turned out to be chopped chicken liver in a thick potato puré. Surprisingly different, but delicious and definitely not something we may have chosen from the main menu, where the tendency, if possible, is to go for something familiar, something safe. Deep fried boquerones (anchovies) followed, best eaten with your fingers, requiring a nibbling technique, the idea being to lift the delicious slivers of fish off the tiny central bone. Delicious. Coffee next, hot, strong and satisfying.
The bill? Ages in coming, traditional it seems, but exceptionally reasonable, not a lot more in fact than the cost of a bun on the run!

January 2006
 

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